Holidays with Horses

Riding a New Range

As a former outfitter and horse logger, I’ve done a lot of camping with horses in some pretty inaccessible places in B.C. and Alberta, and no experience can fill you with more satisfaction than a tidy, organized camp, a warm fire and off in the not-too-far distance, the lead mare’s bell rhythmically tolling from a mountain meadow. Ah, contented horses, contented people; all is right with the world. This is the stuff of dreams.

This article is about vacationing with horses, and I’ve laid out some options that you may not have considered before. Today’s guest ranches are a treat and a far cry from the old head-to-tail dude ranches. Outfitters have access to some of the wildest country imaginable, and specialized equestrian facility campgrounds are more popular than ever.

This article isn’t so much a “how-to” but rather a “try something different” article. So set your sights on the horizon and make this summer the time to ride a new range.

Places to camp with your own horses
The Saskatchewan side of the Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park offers a stunning view of country that ranges from vast plains of native prairie to the rolling hills covered with towering lodgepole pine and spruce. This is Saskatchewan at her finest.

The Park offers a tidy equestrian campground with tie stalls built by a horseman. Constructed of peeled pine poles, these tie stalls are roomy and extra-long with plastic-covered butt chains across the back. Good water is nearby and this campground is for equestrians only. (A non-equestrian campground is just down the road.) The equestrian campground is small and the riders are regulars who come back year after year to ride in the renowned 33,000-acre native grass and high timber country of the West Block.

The rules for this campground, as for the majority, are universal; bring in cubes or pellets (no loose hay to prevent the spread of weeds like Leafy Spurge); clean up after your horses and yourselves; get along with your neighbours and don’t disturb the bluebirds nesting in the map box.

Wagon trains are welcome here but phone ahead to the Ranger station to make reservations as there are some weekends when the backcountry roads are busy, especially during rodeo week, and the warden will give you alternate dates.

Highlights of Cypress Hills include a day ride over to historic Fort Walsh. Hitching rails are on site and bring some cash for lunch and park entry fees — yes, even if you ride in. Go on the bus tour to the Cypress Hills Massacre site and if you’re lucky, the ever-charming historian Clay Yarshenko will be leading the tour.

In Alberta, you can camp and ride as far south as the wild Crowsnest Pass all the way up to the rugged Willmore Wilderness Area. To date, fifteen provincial parks offer equestrian camping and staging facilities and an additional nine provincial parks offer essentially day-use only horse trails, with equestrian facilities nearby. The amenities range from hitching rails to tie stalls to corrals, from free to $25 a night. All of the country is spectacular.

A popular site west of Sundre is the Big Horn Campground, gateway to Banff National Park and the Ya Ha Tinda Ranch, Canada’s only federally operated horse ranch. This area is open only to horses and is very peaceful. The Friends of the Eastern Slopes, a non-profit society oversees and maintains the Big Horn, as well as a number of other sites in Clearwater County.

Another accommodating group of people I have run across is the Back Country Horsemen of B.C. Their website is chock full of trail maps, useful trail notes, information on campsites and a handy checklist. The trails are scattered throughout B.C., with many in the south, including the kick off trailhead for the renowned Pacific Crest Trail that runs from Canada to Mexico. Jim McCrae, the founder of BCBCH rode the length in 1988, and the online diary of his trip is fascinating.

Some of the campsites and horse facilities are on private land and just like the government-run campsites charge a small fee. The facilities run from workably primitive to downright luxurious.

Guides and Outfitters
These men and women know their country like the back of their hand and with their years of experience are prepared for most anything. These folks are outfitters because they love it; and are as proud of their stock as they are excited about introducing you to their part of the world.

Pack trips with licensed outfitters are the epitome of backcountry adventure. Anyone that has ever travelled ‘back West’ (as we say in Alberta) knows how quickly the weather changes in the higher elevations, and there is nothing more comforting than riding into a warm camp — with a hot meal ready and waiting. Outfitters are judged not only on the quality of their horses, hospitality and the unique features of the country they ride but more importantly, on the quality of the food in their camp. The food is fresh, plentiful and with enough advance notice, they can accommodate dietary restrictions. As a guest, you can be as ‘hands-on’ as you want, and it’s a prime opportunity to learn to throw a diamond hitch and many other useful skills.

Outfitters know their guests are keen on the whole experience, so each offers unique expeditions that range from adults-only honeymoon or second honeymoon trips to full-blown family vacations. Don’t assume all trails lead into the mountains; one of the more unique journeys offered by an outfitter starts out deep in southern Alberta where you ride through Writing-On-Stone Provincial Park, famous for its ancient pictographs, cross the wide-open Pinhorn range then over to Fort Walsh. You gain a deep appreciation for the beauty of the wild, wide-open range.

Guest Ranches
Hot tubs, comfy beds, do-as-much-or-as-little-as-you-please, scenic trails (some quite challenging), well-trained horses, wagon rides, plenty of great food and fabulous hosts is the short version of what you can expect at a guest ranch. Often there are other “must-see” historic sites in the area for a day trip.

Guest ranches are more often than not working cattle ranches so having an authentic experience is assured. As well, guest ranches are becoming increasingly popular for activity-based getaways that range from scrap booking weekends to seminars on a variety of topics. They are also a popular destination for weddings and family reunions. The accommodations cover the range from teepee camping to sumptuous guest rooms, cabins to wilderness camps. Some ranches as well as bed and breakfast outfits also offer the newly emerging bed-and-bale option — accommodation for you and your horse. This allows riders the option of riding new trails on their own horse, while enjoying all the comforts of the guest ranch.

So there you have it; options for a new vacation destination. In our increasingly busy world, our wish lists get longer as our time gets shorter. We put off the pleasures, always intending to take that trip or ride that trail sometime down the road. Make the decision to start ticking off the things on your wish list and make some new memories because unlike money, you can take those with you.

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